Chapssal-kkwabaegi at Gwangjang Market
(Glutinous Rice Twisted Donuts)
Walking through the busy alleys of Gwangjang Market in Seoul is like stepping into a living museum of Korean food culture. There are stalls filled with steaming hot bindaetteok (mung bean pancakes), tables lined with trays of kimchi, and rows of vendors rolling seaweed for fresh gimbap. Yet, among all the savory dishes, there is one sweet treat that has captured my heart since childhood: the glutinous rice twisted donut, or chapssal-kkwabaegi (찹쌀 꽈배기).
This humble donut is nothing fancy. It is simply dough made with glutinous rice flour, twisted into a rope, fried until golden, and rolled in sugar. But every bite is soft, chewy, slightly crispy on the outside, and dusted with just the right amount of sweetness. For me, it has always been more than just a snack—it is a taste of childhood, a comfort food that carries memories of after-school treats and cozy afternoons with friends.
When I was young, buying a warm twisted donut from a street vendor felt like the greatest reward. The scent of fried dough mixed with sugar would drift through the air, pulling me closer. Even today, when I visit Gwangjang Market and spot a tray full of freshly fried donuts, I feel that same sense of excitement. Food has a way of bringing us back to earlier times, and this snack is my time machine.
At Gwangjang Market, the twisted donuts are always served fresh. Vendors prepare them right in front of you, twisting the dough with skillful hands and dropping it into bubbling oil. The sizzling sound is followed by the irresistible smell of fried sweetness, and soon the donuts are lifted out, coated with sugar, and placed onto trays for eager customers. They are inexpensive, usually around ₩1,000–₩1,500 per piece, which makes them one of the most affordable joys in the market.
What makes these donuts special is the texture. Unlike Western-style donuts that are fluffy and airy, chapssal-kkwabaegi has a chewiness that comes from the glutinous rice flour. The inside is tender and slightly sticky, while the outside is crisp. This balance makes it satisfying without being too heavy. For foreigners trying it for the first time, the unique texture often comes as a delightful surprise. It’s sweet, but not overly sugary, and it pairs perfectly with a cup of Korean coffee or tea.
The popularity of this snack has spread beyond Korea, thanks to social media and travel bloggers who highlight street foods around the world. Still, nothing compares to enjoying it in the lively atmosphere of Gwangjang Market. Imagine holding a warm donut in your hand, walking past rows of vendors calling out to customers, surrounded by the hum of conversation and the aroma of hundreds of dishes being prepared at once. It is an experience that engages all the senses.
For travelers, chapssal-kkwabaegi offers something important: accessibility. Not everyone is ready for spicy tteokbokki or pungent kimchi on their first trip to Korea. But a twisted donut is simple, familiar, and comforting. It serves as a gentle introduction to Korean street food culture. Families with children often stop here because kids adore the sweetness, while adults appreciate the nostalgic charm.
I believe that’s why this snack has endured for so many decades. Food fads come and go, but certain flavors remain because they connect us to something deeper. Eating a twisted donut is not only about enjoying fried dough—it is about savoring a piece of Korea’s everyday life, a reminder of simpler times, and the enduring bond between past and present.
Tips for Visitors:
- Go early: Freshly fried donuts sell quickly, especially on weekends.
- Pair with a drink: A simple coffee or barley tea complements the sweetness.
- Share a few: They are small enough to eat in two or three bites, but sharing a bag makes the experience even more enjoyable.
📍 Location: Gwangjang Market, Jongno-gu, Seoul
💰 Price: ₩1,000–₩1,500 each
Whether you are visiting Seoul for the first time or returning after many years, I encourage you to pause for a moment at a twisted donut stall in Gwangjang Market. Take that first warm bite, let the sugar melt on your tongue, and allow yourself to be carried into the sweet simplicity of Korean street food tradition. Sometimes, happiness is not found in a grand feast but in the smallest, most familiar treats.